Tubular!

The idea of a secret surf spot excites me. I imagine it as a place that cannot be reached with the assistance of a vehicle. A destination that can only be reached by foot. To reach my secret break (surfer slang for surf spot) you would need to hike for seven and a half hours across ice plant covered rolling hills that overlook the ocean. Of course the seven and a half hours would include a two-hour picnic break. The picnic would be a nice break from hauling a surf board and camping gear over the hilly terrain. After the seven and a half hour trek you would set up camp in a comfy clearing and get some rest for the big day ahead. You would wake up extra early the next morning. probably around 5 am, to make sure you got as much water time as possible. You would continue on your hiking path for another hour and a half until you reached a died out underground river. You would pass through the hallow earth and emerge at the mother of all surf spots, with waves that could only be the stuff of dreams. You would rub your eyes to make sure you werent imagining what you saw. All the effort would fell like nothing once you finally hit the water. The joy of finding the perfect wave would overcome your mind and take control of your body. For those next few hours out in the water you would be in a state of exstacy. I wish I could find the “secret spot”…

last-secret-spot

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